All About Ink Cartridges
The one with the yellow coloration is the perfect. Pure acetone would not work as nicely, it is too sturdy.
· A small squeeze bottle of tap water.
· A rag or some cotton balls.
1. Clean the plate with the fingernail polish remover, alcohol or acetone
2. Apply a medium coat of the Damar to the plate. I use my finger to rub it on. I have by no means tried a brush, nevertheless it ought to work.
3. Men’s Desgin swing for the moon Short Sleeve Tops Tees This step is necessary! The varnish is tacky sufficient to apply the design when the varnish will hold your thumb print with out fading.
Four. When the right amount of tack is reached, place the design with the toner aspect down on the varnish.
5. Hold in place, and burnish the design firmly into the varnish. Don’t attempt to take away the design.
6. Take a rag or cotton ball and apply a small amount of the fingernail polish remover. Don’t soak! Dab cotton ball firmly all over the paper until you see the design by means of the wet paper, then burnish as you did before, the firmer the higher.
7. Apply sufficient water to make the paper wet through.
8. Using your finger, begin rubbing the paper till it begins to roll up. Keep the paper wet always, and keep rolling it until all of the paper is gone and only the toner remains.
(Laser Method B) Laser Printer Transfer Technique
· Laser printer and clear acetate paper (or different papers)
Modify a laser printer by disabling the heat rollers that the paper goes through earlier than it exits the machine. The heat is used to melt the toner onto the paper, and by disabling the heat, the toner is not going to melt and set itself to the paper or acetate. When the paper exits the machine, the toner is just laying on the floor of the paper and will be simply wiped off. You are by yourself disabling the heat to the rollers in your printer. Every laser printer is a bit of totally different, with “smart” sensors that seem to know if something is not working prefer it should. I have never been successful disabling the heated rollers on my HP 4P laser printer, but on the previous HP 2P machine it was attainable.
Relatively than disabling the heat rollers in the printer, it may also work to simply shut the printer off before the paper will get to the heated rollers, or you might open the toner cartridge door on the printer to stop the paper (or acetate) earlier than it will get to the heated rollers. It takes some experimenting to know when to open or shut it off, however when profitable, the powdered toner can be unset and just laying on the acetate or paper.
Be certain that to print the design in reverse. Next, put a fine coat of damar varnish or shellac on the metal where you need the design. Rigorously tape the acetate (with the toner face down) into place. Use a finger nail or a plastic burnishing device, and rub on the back of the acetate. The toner will follow the varnish.
(Laser Technique C) Photocopy and Laser Printer Transfer Technique
Technique is just a little hit and miss with quality of switch results.
· Photocopy or laser printed design on plain paper.
· Acetone, carburetor cleaner, or lacquer thinner
1. Print the design in reverse with a laser printer or photocopy machine.
2. Cut the design out with scissors. Depart a little additional (1/four”) paper across the design, if desired, to permit room to tape the image down.
3. Lay the print face down, and place a solvent-dampened paper towel on the back aspect of the design.
4. Press down firmly. The image will start to indicate by way of the back side of the paper.
5. Take away the paper, and hopefully there will be a clean switch. If not, clean off and take a look at again. A lot solvent will trigger the picture to run. If not sufficient is used, the toner will not transfer.
(Laser Technique D) Laser Printer Transfer Methodology
by Roderic Stannard
Good Morning ,
After appreciable time and expense on attempting to transfer a picture from my Canon ink jet and HP laser printers and using different brands of paper and transparencies and so on that are readily obtainable in Australia., as a final determined act to get something to truly work in any respect I raided the pantry and borrowed a roll of baking paper (used for lining cake tins and oven trays to make them non stick). It is a silicon (sic) coated paper and able to withstand oven temperatures to 450 C. It’s pretty much transparent like tracing paper. Price is about $three. for 15 metres from all good supermarkets and it goes on the grocery bill (non traceable).
To cut it brief, I printed a design using the HP laser printer on a sheet lower to A4 dimensions and applied it to a steel plate coated with the Damar/Zippo resolution which was simply on tacky. Rubbed evenly with my finger and a flat agate burnisher (to verify) and had a hundred% image transfer with no loss of positive element and you might see the image coming off the paper as it went clear as the picture lifted. Absolutely no laser toner left on the paper. The heat from the laser printer did just a few wrinkles in the paper, but nothing important. Complete time from hitting the print button and coating the plate with Damar/Zippo varnish to a full image transfer was approx one minute!!
Made my day!!!!!!
Now to chop what I transferred, I needed the better element to reap the benefits of my rapidly improving small detail work with the Lindsay Traditional.
The only further improvement has been to make use of transparencies from our personal suppliers in Oz and using 3M waterproofing spray (for waterproofing sneakers and so forth) or equivalent in 3 coats to make the transfer work. The spray places down a silicone layer on the transparency and stops the laser print from adhering. Does not matter what model of transparency (from the suppliers down here) they all provide a good transfer, simply takes a little experimentation.
Variation of the above Roderic Stannard’s method using a shellac solution
by Dr. Showah
· Denatured alcohol (hardware store)
· Bulls eye shellac (hardware retailer) Made by Zinsser
· BIN Primer (hardware store) Also made by Zinsser (this is a Shellac based primer. It contains shellac, and alcohol with a white pigment)
· Parchment baking paper from grocery store
Mix is by quantity
1 half Denatured alcohol
1/2 – 1 part Bulls Eye Shellac
1/2 (0.5) part BIN primer
Paint the solution on the metallic surface you’ll be transferring to using a small brush, q-tip or finger tip. Let it tack (about 1 minutes)
Print your design in reverse with a laser printer on to the parchment paper. (Flip the design around earlier than printing so it is reversed).
Use scotch tape to tape the parchment paper on the shellacked metallic with the design down and now rub on the again side of the parchment paper with fingernail, toothpick or plastic stick such as the again of a plastic ball point pin.
Click here for extra details about this technique on the engraving forum.
Pencil and Ink transfers
1. Draw with a soft lead pencil (HB works effectively) on frosted mylar paper/plastic, and then place some scotch tape over the pencil drawing.
2. Rub it with a plastic bunisher or a fingernail, and pull the tape up. Most of the pencil graphite should persist with the tape.
3. Stick the tape on damar varnished or shellacked steel,
four. Burnish it with the plastic burnisher or fingernail, and pull the tape up. Be certain that the damar or shellac is fairly dry and just slightly tacky. A number of the graphite should keep on the varnish or shellac.
The same concept will work with ink prints, besides scratch with a scribe into plastic mylar, then rub printers ink into the cuts and wipe off the floor leaving the ink within the cuts. Use scotch tape to drag the ink up and transfer it to damared metal.
This methodology may also produce ink prints of engraving. Wipe the ink into the engraving cuts, and place tape over the engraving, rub and pull up. This also works well for mirroring an engraving design. Stick a second piece of tape against the ink pull (two sticky sides collectively) and pull them apart. A number of the ink will transfer to the second piece of tape and can then be used to transfer to the steel.
2: Wipe the ink off the surface, but depart ink in the cuts. Newspaper works properly. Don’t use a cotton rag or tissue as a result of they may wipe the ink out of the cuts.
3. Lay a bit of scotch tape over the inked engraving and rub the tape into the cuts with a toothpick.
Four:Pull the tape up. A number of the ink ought to be on the tape. 5: For mirroring the design to the other aspect of the knife, place a second piece of tape (sticky sides together) with the first tape with the inked design. Keep the ends of the 2 items of tape apart so you’ve gotten something to grip to tug them apart. Press the two pieces of tape collectively along with your fingers so that the ink is transferred to the second piece of tape, and then pull them apart. 6: With a small artist paint brush or Q-tip, paint a thin layer of thinned out (5 to 1 or 10 to 1) shellac. Use alcohol for thinning. Paint on the steel floor where the design is to be transferred. In this instance, it’s the opposite side of the knife. Blow on it and wait approx 2 to 5 minutes for it to dry tacky.
Damar varnish relatively than shellac may also be use.
Note: it is possible to transfer the ink without the usage of shellac, nonetheless the design is much less durable and could smear throughout the engraving process.
7: Carefully lay the second piece of tape with the mirror picture of the design precisely in position where the design is to be transferred to.
Eight: Rub on the tape to make sure the ink is fully towards the floor of the shellacked steel, after which peel up simply half of the tape as shown above and look to see how clear the switch is. If it is not dark or clear enough, blow on the shellac with the tape pulled again and stick the tape down once more and rub on it more. Do that several instances until the switch is as clear as attainable. Stick the tip of the tape down once more, and lift up on the opposite half of the tape and repeat the process until it is also a transparent switch.
9: Above is a photo of the finished switch. The 2 pieces of tape have been stuck on a chunk of paper to incorporate them within the picture.
10: The reducing of the ink print is begun for the second aspect of the knife.
Word: A laser printer transfer may have been used for the second facet of the knife, nevertheless it is less complicated to chop an ink transfer from the engraving on the first aspect.
A smoke print is similar to the ink print described above. Smoke and ladies shirt for cufflinks ink prints can be used to repeat an already engraved design. A candle flame can be utilized within the smoke method. Hold the engraved steel simply above the candle flame to cover the surface of the engraving with black soot. After the engraving is lined in soot, there are two strategies. One produces a optimistic (black strains show the engraving cuts, and surfaces not engraved are white). The opposite produces a detrimental (white traces where the engraving cuts are and black where the floor will not be engraved). For a positive, wipe the soot off the floor of the engraving with newspaper. Try to solely remove the soot off the floor, and depart the soot within the engraving cuts. Place scotch tape over the design, and rub the tape into the soot within the cuts with a burnisher or toothpick. For a unfavourable, don’t wipe the soot off the floor. As an alternative, place tape over the engraving. Instead of rubbing the tape down into the engraving cuts, keep the tape from going into the cuts by rubbing flippantly with one thing larger (a finger pushing very lightly works) to push the tape on the sooty, unengraved floor. Now pull the tape up to find the design on the piece of tape. Ink and smoke pulls are a great way to keep records of labor, and can also be used to switch the design to another area for mirroring or repeating border patterns.